Carb Maintenance & Synchronization
Experiencing rough idle, galloping, backfire, and
uneven acceleration? This is a good indication you need the carbs
synchronized. The procedure is fairly similar for all multi carb
engines including Goldwings, V-max and a great many
more. The idea is to get all the individual cylinder vacuums to match. I'll use
the standard inline four as a demo type. First thing pull the seat & fuel
tank so you can get at the carb adjustments and
vacuum connections. You'll need an auxiliary fuel supply as the tuning will
take enough time to drain the carbs dry. Here's a neat little tank that will
do the job with minor cash outlay.

Fill the auxiliary
tank about 1/2 full. Slip the hose over the spout tip. There’s no need to vent
the tank as the sides are soft and will "inhale" as fuel is used.
Hook up the tank to one of the fuel lines (some bikes have (2) lines that feed
all the carbs, one is standard the other is reserve.
Using a 1/4" drill bit or short Phillips screwdriver, plug the remaining
lines so fuel doesn't spray all over. Lay the tank on the frame or faring just
so gravity can do its thing. Start with the idle fuel mixture settings. Check the
service manual for how many turns out the mixture screws are supposed to be set.
(Some mixture screws are non-adjustable. Skip this step and go to
synchronization). Start engine & allow it to warm up. Place a fan or
furnace blower in front of the engine to keep from overheating. (Mixture screw
tips are precision machined points and may be easily damaged if tightened into
seats). One screw at a time, turn mixture screws in until they seat, counting
number of “turns in” as you go. Record this number for later reference if
needed. Once seated, back them out to factory recommendations. Turn the screw
on #1 carb out until you notice a roughening idle. Go
back to the original setting and turn in until the idle roughens again. Set the
screw at the mid point of these two settings. Repeat with other mixture screws.
Some carbs use a fuel mixture screw and some use an
air bleed screw. The procedure is the same for both. On the fuel mixture screw
type, turning screws clockwise is leaner; counter clockwise is richer. The air
bleed type is just the opposite.
Carburetor Synchronization:
To sync the carbs you will need a gauge set or one of the more popular carb stick synchronizers. These can be purchased through
"Dennis Kirk" 1-800-328-9280 or www.JCWhitney.com,
(Keyword: Carburetor Synchronizers). Most tuners prefer the mercury carb sticks as they are more reliable in the long term and
don't require any needle flutter calibration. Hose adapters are required for
some motorcycles. They are not included with the tool and are a separate
purchase. They are listed with the sync tools. I recommend the purchase of a
sync adjuster screw tool. This tool works the locknuts and adjuster screws.
Support the
sync tool on a lever or handle bar grip and connected to the respective carbs. Keep the hoses clear of engine’s hot surfaces. For tuning
Yamahas, go to the "YICS" section for the tuning procedure.
With fan on
in a well ventilated room or area, aux fuel connected, idle mixture set, and carburetor
synchronizer tool connected, and engine warmed to normal operating temperatures,
set the idle speed to about 1000 RPM and watch the sync gauges. Pick a carb and set the vacuum of the others to match this one. Pick
one that is not the highest or lowest, but in the middle of the readings. Some carburetors
have one non-adjustable carb that the others are
adjusted to. Check the service manual or call your local dealer if you are not
sure if your carbs are this type.
The
majority carbs have adjusting screws between
the carbs. (On older Kawasaki KZ
type carbs, adjusting screws are located under the
carburetor top cover caps.) Adjusting screws have locknuts to maintain
adjustments. You may notice your adjustments change slightly when tightening
locknuts. Compensate for this accordingly as you work. The adjuster found
between carbs 1 & 2 balances those two carbs. The adjuster found between carbs
3 & 4 balances those two carbs. The adjuster
found between carbs 2 & 3 (or center) balances the
left and right carb sets (1-2 & 3-4) to each
other. On older Goldwings, screws are between carbs as above, but center adjuster is on the left side. The
order in which the carbs are adjusted doesn't matter
as long as they all come out balanced in the end. When adjusted as level as
possible, you’re finished.
Sync
adjuster screws may have a drop of red or yellow paint to mark or seal the factory
sync settings. While synchronizing, open and close the throttle slowly to avoid
drawing mercury into the engine.