Fuel Mixture Screw Adjustment
Courtesy of: Mark A. Luby Howard
Here
are a few pics for you other newbies
who may want to richen your carbs without dismantling
parts of the whole carburation system. This took me a little while to do (maybe a
bit over an hour), but I was experimenting as I went along. I appreciated the info given along the way
with the carb rejetting
procedures, and thought this might provide a little more specific info for
those not ready to do the whole rejetting procedure
yet!
The
tools I used:



I found the drill bit mounted
on the rotary tool to be the quickest at putting a hole through the two
left-sided caps, and the outside right-sided cap, but it barely reached the
second-from-the-right adjustment cap.
For that one I used the angled grinding wheel and attempted to cut
through as much of the cap as possible from the side.
The
screwdriver/extension setup was used instead of a regular screwdriver only
because my screwdriver was not magnetized and the screw kept falling off as I
attempted to bring it close to the drilled hole.
The
small-sized allen wrench was used at one point to pop
the second-from-the-left cap out when the screw decided it did not want to seat
itself fully within the drilled out hole.
It worked easy enough, though I had to bend it a bit back into shape
after applying force to it at an angle.
Additionally,
I used needle-nosed pliers to remove the cap with the screw in it, but did not
take a picture of such.
With
the second-from-the-right cap I ended up grinding as much as I could, and then
applying force from the bottom with a small crow bar to force the screw through
the thinned out cap. It took a little
coaxing, but it finally went! That was
definitely the hardest cap to remove!!!
Here are a few pics of what it looked like when I was
drilling/grinding out the caps:


Once
I had drilled the hole into the cap I was able to use the extension screwdriver
setup to place the screw into the hole:

And,
viola, out comes the cap! (with the help of the needle-nosed pliers):

I
know this is not super-complete, but it should give others more of an idea of
how they could proceed with removing the tamper-proof (???) fuel adjustment
mixture caps. I am definitely a mechanical
novice, but this was fairly easy with a good measure of patience thrown in. My final adjustments are set at 2 1/3 turns
out (thirds were easier to measure using a hex-headed screwdriver bit) and they
seem to be much better!